Articles & Tips

Many clients contact us in frustration due to lousy contractor situations. To help you avoid common oversights, we've compiled a guide based on the experiences from these calls.

Step 1) Search for a qualified contractor who is not the cheapest.

(A Jack of all Trades is a Master of Nothing!)

Search around and ask around for the best contractor for your project. Call your friends and family to see if they know any reputable contractors they have worked with before. The internet holds a mass of resources when trying to find a contractor. But how will you know which one is the right match for you?

The internet is flooded with contractors of all sorts. You want to select a contractor who specializes in your needs. For instance, if you are going to build an addition to your home, a licensed General Contractor is a must. However, they don't specialize in much - hence the word General. They typically use the cheapest subs to perform different tasks. You want to be able to either select the subs yourself or meet them in person and qualify them yourself. This will help eliminate significant issues if a paint guy with some experience installs your new tiled floor but doesn't focus on tile floors day in and day out.

Search industry-specific memberships and associations to find a quality contractor who may be listed on their member list. (Just because they are listed in one of these does not necessarily mean that they are or are not of high quality. Most companies pay to be listed as members, but it is an avenue to know at least they go the extra step instead of just placing free ads on Social Media Websites.)

Please keep a record of each contractor and how you found them specifically. (Example: Google Search took you to their website or an ad in Oodle, etc.) Print out the ads or keep copies if possible. Remember, when calling into a location, you may or may not get a contractor directly. They may have receptionists answering their phones for them while they focus on business. It is best to write a list of questions and concerns about your project so that they may be addressed in person during your estimate or consultation.

Step 2) Get an Estimate

(Any promises made verbally are as valuable as the paper they are written on)

· Get an estimate in writing. In many cases, a contractor cannot account for what they cannot see, and an estimate is just that. An approximate cost to complete a project is based on what they can see during the initial estimate. However, if the contractor does this day in and day out, their estimate should not be very different from the total cost of the final project price unless unknown damages are uncovered at the time of the project being worked on.

· Make sure you understand what types of payments are accepted now.

· Write when the contractor will expect deposits and whether they are refundable at this time.

· Take notes while the contractor examines your project. Pay attention to how they are examining the area. Are they paying attention to details or seem more interested in making a sale?

· Make sure to ask the contractor all the questions you may have now.

TIP: Have a list of questions written down before the contractor arrives.

Suggested Questions to ask a potential contractor/sub-contractor

· What is the daily primary function of that person in the company? (Are they just a sales agent, a technician, a general contractor, a project manager, etc.)

· Will that person be present during the entire project? If not, who will oversee the project? What are their qualifications?

· Are background checks performed on all employees and subs?

· How long has the contractor/sub-contractor done (ex., stone, tile, painting, carpentry, electrical, etc.)?

· Has the contractor/sub-contractor been formally trained in that industry? If so, where? Do they have any certificates of completion they can show you?

· Is the contractor certified or a member of any professional organization in that industry? If so, ask to see a copy of that certification, or are they listed among their members online? If so, contact that organization to see if there are any consumer complaints about them.

· Which standards does the contractor base their artistry on? (i.e., Stone and Tile Pros, MIA, ANSI, TCNA, AIA, IICRC, ASCE, The Guild of Master Craftsmen, ASPE, NECA, and other associations or just Basic Local Building Code, etc.)

TIP: Make sure they list this in their Contract. It would be better if it were included in the Estimate and Contract.

· Does the contractor have photos of previous work?

· Does the contractor have references? (Please do not ask for residential reference addresses. As contractors, we ask our clients for permission to use them as references. However, we also favor their privacy and do not hand out the personal home addresses of our clients, nor should any contractor.)

· Does the contractor/sub-contractor do any commercial work, as well? (If the contractor does do commercial work, in some cases, you can personally go to that location and see their work. Remember, these surfaces usually have much more use and abuse than residential ones, and many commercial locations use the wrong cleaning products. Instead of cleaning, they strip their surfaces daily.)

· Ask for a list of what materials will be used. (There are quality products and cheap products. There are products that are specific to one aspect of the project, and many contractors do not pay attention to the manufacturer's instructions and may use the wrong product for the wrong surface type.) This will also help you look up the products and get manufacturer installation instructions to be sure they are done correctly as the project is being completed.

· Does the contractor have MSDS (Material Data Safety Sheets) available for all products, materials, and chemicals they will use on your property? (The law requires them always to carry these sheets.) This will give you a breakdown of what all products, materials, and chemicals are made of. (Ask for a copy of all MSDS sheets for all materials and products they will have on your property.)

· What safety program does the contractor/subcontractor have in case of an accident? (Contractors are all obligated per OSHA to have a safety program and a safety manual at each project site.)

· Ask for samples or a sample to be done on your surface (If applicable)

· Is the contractor, all employees, and any subcontractors fully insured? (You want to ensure that each contractor, employee, and sub-contractor carries enough General Liability Insurance to replace your entire property and its contents in case something should happen. Even if it seems like a little project, something such as taking a cigarette break and accidentally not putting that cigarette out all the way can cause a big problem.)

TIP: Surface Buff has a company policy that no employee or sub-contractor may smoke on the project premises to avoid this liability and to ensure cigarette butts are not left for the client to clean up. You may want to have this policy and ensure it is included in the contract.

· Are all contractors, employees, and sub-contractors covered by Workmen's Compensation? If the contractors are only themselves and have no employees, they should have a "Ghost Policy." This protects the property owner if the contractor, employee, or sub-contractor is injured. Regardless of who is careless or absentminded, if that contractor/employee/sub-contractor gets injured and it is on your property, you may be held as the liable party and must fight a battle. Ensuring that each employee, contractor, and sub-contractor who touches your property is covered with workers' compensation is best.

TIP: Check with your State's Insurance Commissioner to find out what the State bar's minimum requirements are.

· Ask for a Copy of Insurance (COI) with your name and address listed as the Certificate Holder. Suppose a contractor or sub-contractor hesitates to give this to you or gives any excuse why they may not be able to get this to you within 14 days (usually). In that case, you should not take anybody's word because it could be your liability.

TIP: Do not allow a project to start without this in hand!

· Call the insurance company to confirm that the COI is current and accurate, as it says it is.

· Ask if electrical tooling will be required to complete your project. This is important because some equipment may need to be plugged into a converter to connect to two different circuits to avoid accidental power loss.

TIP: If you have a computer, make sure you save all work while the project is being completed and shut off your computer to avoid losing information or damaging your system.

· Is there more than one option to complete this project?

· Is the suggested project option a "band-aid" solution, or will this resolve or perform how it should?

· What maintenance is going to be done for this project? (Include each surface, if applicable. i.e., a tile project will require different maintenance than a toilet, and using the wrong products may damage a surface and void any warranties or guarantees.)

· Is the contractor/sub-contractor qualified to suggest the proper maintenance products, or can they give you a care guide or, at the least, refer you to someone who can educate you on what products to use?

· How long can the contractor expect this service to last? (There is no crystal ball solution to answer this question, but the contractor should have a level of experience to know a ballpark idea.)

· Does the contractor and sub-contractor offer any Warranties or Guarantees? (The difference between a Warranty and a Guarantee is that a Warranty is either a "Name Apparel" - which will cover only items specifically listed and nothing else, or an "Exclusionary" - which covers everything except listed items. You get more coverage with an Exclusionary Warranty. For example, you buy a car. You are offered a Powertrain warranty or a Full Coverage Warranty. A name apparel warranty is like a Power-train Warranty, and the Exclusionary Warranty is like that "bumper-to-bumper" Warranty. A Guarantee is a promise usually to state that they believe their product will perform the way the Manufacturer states it will perform. Find out if any of these include parts/materials and labor. You must know precisely what the contractor/sub-contractor offers...and again, get it in writing!)

· Step 3) Documents and Contracts (Go ahead and imagine what items you need to present a situation to a judge. It's not that you will have to, but at least you will have everything ready, just in case. If you are a plaintiff...you will carry the burden of proof! Don't put yourself in a position where you say you wish you had done such and such before this all happened.) Before any agreement, did you get the MDSD sheets? See a safety manual? Get a copy of the insurance and workers’ compensation. Did you validate all the items to ensure everything is valid and accurate? If your contractor doesn't have a suitable contract, get one. You want this contract to include the contractor's responsibilities, the customer's (you) responsibilities, identify the project area, identify the project steps as best as possible, record who is responsible for supplying materials and tools, how much the project will cost and the payment terms, (make sure to have it clear that any changes or additions must be included on an addendum signed by both parties), and make sure they list their insurance coverage on the contract. 

TIP: Have a lawyer look over all documents before signing and agreeing. Sometimes, things aren't what they seem, and a lawyer can generally catch something if it exists.

§ Check for specific terms in the contract regarding arbitrations, settlements, etc., and make sure they are fair.

§ Check the contract for legal, collection, and late fees to ensure fairness.

§ Documenting also includes photographing, recording, or video. (Before recording, be sure you know your local laws regarding audio recording to ensure you do not accidentally violate any laws.) Always check with a local lawyer before.

§ Be sure to keep a decent-quality camera. Take before, during, and final photos of the project. (If you cannot be present during the project completion, have a reliable person there to complete this for you.) Surface Buff always takes before, during, and after photos. We are always happy to share these with you at no additional cost.

§ Keep everything in an organized file - including a folder on your computer for any emails.

§ Get all Warranties and Guarantees in writing.

§ Keep receipts for everything.

§ Keep a journal to document daily activities, progress, and conversations.

§ If project changes or other issues are discovered during the project, ensure all parties agree to a solution and a price and create a written addendum to include all details and pricing that all parties sign. Remember, will these changes also be included in any Warranty or Guarantee?

If you have concerns about how a project or an employee, contractor, or sub-contractor is performing, write a letter to the person in charge of the project detailing your problems, keep a copy for yourself, and keep a good document trail. If the other party responds verbally (hopefully quickly), write another letter or email thanking them for their response, reiterate the conversation details, and ask them if you understand that conversation correctly.

Step 4) Inspect a finished project.

Do not make a final payment until you inspect the finished project and write down any issues you feel you have found. It is critical that you do this within 24 hours of the project's completion.
Write down a list of possible issues.
Take photos of possible issues.
Write a letter or email to include these possible issues.
If you do not find any issues, pay according to the terms of the agreement/contract. Contractors, employees, and sub-contractors work hard and depend on getting paid on time.

Step 5) Maintenance

Proper maintenance is the key to keeping any surface, project, machine, etc., beautiful and lasting longer. Be sure you know what products to use to maintain your project. How often? Who should you call if you have any future questions or concerns about maintenance? Get a document (if it isn't already on the Warranty/Guarantee document) that will lead you to a long-lasting, beautiful, finished project.

Step 6) Leave Feedback

In today's World, word of mouth is everything. Positive or Negative Feedback is crucial, and there are several places where and how you can leave Feedback. This will help other consumers in the future. By doing so, you can do your share to help increase the quality and expectations of contractor artistry and materials just by leaving feedback in as many places as possible. (Be careful with leaving negative feedback that you do not cause harm to any potential legal case you may have or that you might be held liable for any defamation. You may want to consult with your attorney about negative feedback text before submitting negative comments to public access.)

Sadly, there are a lot of details, steps, and sometimes extra costs to ensure a contractor, materials used, and the overall project will be up to par. Taking care of all these details requires much less effort, time, energy, and money before a problem is created. Think about it. If you decide not to take all the precautions and a problem exists, not only will the project possibly need to be redone, which will take more time and aggravation, but there could also be costs for taking it out, disposal fees, and then the cost to buy more products and supplies and labor to put it in correctly. You may end up multiple times more than you did when you originally had the project first completed...or even more if legal action must be taken.

When considering a do-it-yourself stone or tile installation, it's essential to be well-prepared for grout and epoxy cleanup. Here are some detailed tips to guide you through the process:

Cement Grout Cleanup:

1. Start by carefully removing any large chunks of excess grout with a scraper, ensuring it does not damage polished stone surfaces.

2. Thoroughly sweep or dust mop the floor to eliminate any loose debris.

3. Rinse the floor multiple times with plain water, using a string mop and ensuring not to flood the tile to prevent grout discoloration. In case of excess water, use a wrung mop or wet vacuum to remove it.

4. If grout residue persists, consider using a grout removal chemical. For marble and other acid-sensitive stone, create a solution using household ammonia and water. For granite, glazed ceramic, or porcelain, utilize a mild solution of sulfamic acid and water. Always avoid using any acids on marble, travertine, onyx, limestone, or terrazzo surfaces.

Epoxy Grout Cleanup:

1. Carefully scrape off any large pieces of epoxy using a sharp razor blade, ensuring the area is wet to prevent scratching.

2. Prepare a solution of hot water and a few drops of dishwashing detergent, then scrub the epoxy using a green scrub pad.

3. If the soap solution isn't effective, attempt wiping the surface with a clean white rag and acetone. However, exercise caution and follow safety procedures when using acetone or other strong chemicals.

4. If acetone proves ineffective, you may need to resort to a stronger solvent.

It's crucial to approach DIY projects with an abundance of caution. If you're uncertain about which grout cleaner or chemical to use, or whether a stronger solvent is required, consider seeking guidance from a Surface Buff Expert for recommendations or services.

When transitioning from the cold season to warmer weather, it’s common to notice sooty residue on fireplace surrounds and hearths. This stubborn residue, akin to grease, requires a potent degreaser for effective removal. Tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) is widely recommended by industry experts for this purpose. However, it's worth noting that TSP is a potent chemical with potential human and environmental hazards, necessitating careful handling if used.

• Prior to commencing, it is essential to thoroughly review the instructions and warnings. It is paramount to adhere to them diligently.
• When working in potentially      hazardous environments, it is essential to minimize exposure by wearing long pants and long sleeves, as well as using protective gloves, safety  glasses, and a particle mask or respirator. Additionally, it is important      to ensure proper ventilation in the area.
• For optimal results, use ½ to one      cup of TSP per gallon of hot water when cleaning. If you're working on a      vertical surface, consider making a paste with TSP and a small amount of      water for better control. Apply the paste using a sponge or scrub brush,      depending on the surface, and be sure to rinse thoroughly. Remember that a      little TSP goes a long way, so use it sparingly. 
• Please be advised that TSP      (trisodium phosphate) can have a detrimental effect on painted surfaces.      Therefore, if you wish to avoid repainting after cleaning, it is      recommended to mask and protect painted surfaces as needed.
• The presence of TSP in lakes and      streams can have damaging effects as it promotes the excessive growth of      algae. This, in turn, depletes the oxygen levels in the water, posing a      threat to fish and other wildlife. Additionally, it is imperative to      prevent TSP from entering septic systems or individual water purification      systems, as it can have detrimental effects. It is essential to dilute TSP      effectively and ensure proper management of the resulting wastewater.
• The caustic properties of trisodium phosphate (TSP) necessitate adherence to regulations governing      its usage and disposal. It is imperative to consult local and state guidelines to ensure compliance and avoid potential repercussions.

The aforementioned guidelines are fundamental for managing TSP effectively, however, there are additional crucial factors to take into account. Specifically, it is imperative to consider the composition of the surface being cleaned. Is it comprised of porcelain or ceramic tile, brick, natural stone, or another material? For instance, the coarser side of a standard kitchen sponge is suitable for use on glazed tile, whereas an actual scrub brush or abrasive pad should be avoided to prevent potential scratching or damage to the surface. 

Conversely, cleaning bricks may necessitate a more abrasive scrubbing technique. Furthermore, it is important not to assume that a stiff brush suitable for cleaning bricks is also appropriate for all-natural stone. Consider soapstone, for example, commonly found in hearths and fireplace surrounds due to its highly efficient heat retention and radiation properties. Despite these attributes, soapstone is a softer stone that is prone to scratching and should not be subjected to vigorous brushing. 

Should you find yourself considering contacting your Surface Buff Experts to address the sooty residue, it is certainly understandable. Engaging a professional to manage this issue is a viable option. However, it is essential to possess enough knowledge to assess their ability to effectively address your needs, safeguard your family, protect your property, and consider the impact on the environment.

  BEFORE using these harsh cleaning detergents, try this tip!

Discover the powerful stain-removing capabilities of 40-volume creme developer:

Did you know that using a 40-volume creme developer on certain surfaces can effectively reduce or eliminate stains? Surprisingly, this common hair product can be a crucial component in some stain removal methods.

Instructions:

- Visit your local beauty supply store to acquire 40-volume creme developer (a concentrated form of hydrogen peroxide).

- Begin by moistening the stained area with water.

- Before applying the creme developer to the stain, conduct a small patch test in a less visible area. Leave it on for about an hour to ensure it won't cause discoloration or etching on your surface. If it looks good, apply the creme developer to the stain using a rubber spatula.

- Allow the application to sit uncovered for 4-8 hours, checking periodically to monitor the stain's progress.

- Once the stain is completely eliminated, use paper towels and a pH-neutral, stone-safe cleaner to wipe away the developer and clean the area.

Precautions:

- Ensure that children and pets are kept away from the developer, as it can be harmful to the skin and may cause blindness.

- Exercise caution to prevent the developer from coming into contact with your eyes and limit its exposure to the skin.

- Please note that this technique is not suitable for rust or oil-based stains.

In our efforts to address various instances of stone and tile failures in pools, spas, fountains, and other water features, we have recognized the detrimental impact of improper maintenance practices, such as the use of incorrect cleaning chemicals and unbalanced water chemistry. The following document outlines essential dos and don'ts for the prudent maintenance and cleaning of pools and water features.

Addressing Mineral Deposits:

One common issue encountered in swimming pools and water features is the accumulation of mineral deposits, which often manifest as a white film on tile surfaces and can develop into substantial crusts. Typically, these deposits necessitate the use of Muriatic acid coupled with manual scrubbing to achieve effective removal. However, it is imperative to exercise caution, as excessive use of acid can lead to adverse effects on grout and tile and, in some cases, cause damage to marble. Adhering to the following procedure is crucial:

Step 1: Preparation—Before working with any acid, ensure adequate protection by wearing chemical-resistant gloves, a respiratory mask, and goggles when using Muriatic acid.

Step 2: Safeguard adjacent surfaces that may be susceptible to splashes.

Step 3: Dilute one-part Muriatic acid with two parts water, bearing in mind to pour the acid into the water and not vice versa to prevent splashing.

Step 4: Apply the acid solution using a sponge or rag, refraining from spraying or pouring it. Subsequently, use a nylon scrub brush to agitate until the deposits are eliminated.

Step 5: To neutralize the acid, rinse the tile with a solution of water and odorless ammonia or baking soda.

Step 6: Thoroughly rinse the entire surface with clean water.

Adhering to this protocol can reduce the likelihood of damage. While non-acid cleaning methods such as bead blasting are viable alternatives, it is imperative to engage the services of a professional contractor for these techniques.

Ensuring Proper Water Chemistry:

Improperly balanced water chemistry represents another critical challenge in the maintenance of pools and water features. Common errors include infrequent monitoring of pH, total hardness, bromine, and chlorine, permitting pH levels to exceed 8.0, neglecting the impact of Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) and Calcium hardness, overlooking alkalinity, and inadequate maintenance of saltwater pool cells, filters, and filter baskets.

To maintain optimal water chemistry, it is recommended to:

- Monitor water chemistry parameters at least twice a week to facilitate minor adjustments, thereby minimizing the risks of over-chlorination and unnecessary expenditure on chlorine.

- Prevent the pH from exceeding 8.0, as this adversely affects the activity of chlorine.

- Regularly check TDS and calcium hardness, aiming to keep TDS levels below 1500 ppm to avoid mineral deposit precipitation.

- Monitor alkalinity levels monthly, aiming for a range of 80 to 140 ppm.

- Regularly clean saltwater pool cells to prevent reduced chlorine generation.

- Exercise restraint in backwashing sand or DE filter systems, limiting backwashing to when the gauge rises by 8-10 psi from clean.

- Frequently clean filter baskets to maintain proper water flow and prevent deposit accumulation.

Additionally, it is advantageous to add liquid chlorine in the evening, brush pool walls and tiles to inhibit deposit, algae, and scum adherence, and conduct regular inspections to identify and promptly address any damaged tiles or pipes.

Adhering to these guidelines can significantly extend the longevity of pool and water feature structures, ensuring prolonged functionality and mitigating the need for extensive restoration. In the event of encountering challenges or issues, consulting with industry experts is encouraged to avert further deterioration and ensure optimal maintenance practices.

We want to bring to your attention the potentially harmful effects of candles and incense, especially in environments with carpeting. While candles and incense are often associated with creating a warm and inviting atmosphere, it's important to note that they can also contribute to diminished indoor air quality and leave an unsightly graphite film on carpeting, which can be challenging to remove.

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, burning candles with lead-core wicks may result in indoor air concentrations of lead above EPA-recommended thresholds. Additionally, exposure to incense smoke has been linked with several illnesses, and certain incense brands contain chemicals suspected of causing skin irritation.

Heavily scented oil candles and ordinary incense can create graphite pollution, similar to cigarette smoke, and may contain cancer-causing chemicals associated with migraines and sinus problems. These products can also trigger symptoms in individuals with COPD and other respiratory conditions. The soot left behind by candles and incense can infiltrate carpets, rugs, and upholstered furniture fibers, causing a carpet problem called filtration soiling, which creates dark, dirty areas along the edges of the rug and around HVAC vents.

To mitigate these risks, we recommend the following alternatives:

1. To minimize soot production, Use incense made with cosmetic-grade oil and no bamboo core.

2. Utilize clean-burning alternatives such as candles made with soy wax, palm wax, or liquid wax. Beeswax candles are the best option, producing negative ions that purify the air.

3. Opt for candles without large wicks, as thick wicks produce heavy soot. Thin cotton or wood wicks are recommended.

4. Choose unscented or naturally scented candles or select brands that use 100% naturally derived essential oils.

5. Maintain a regular cleaning schedule, including vacuuming often, cleaning air ducts annually, changing or cleaning air filters every two to three months, and regularly cleaning and dusting hard surfaces.

In addition, professional cleaning of carpets and upholstery once or twice a year is highly recommended to eliminate odors and prevent the need for masking them.

These measures allow you to create a fresh, clean, and inviting environment for your family, guests, employees, or patrons without compromising health or hygiene. We appreciate your attention to these important considerations and look forward to providing you with a delightful and safe ambiance.

If your granite or quartz (engineered stone) countertops are exposed to UV light, you may consider taking preventive measures to safeguard them from fading.

Ultraviolet (UV) light is electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength shorter than that of visible light but longer than X-rays. It falls within the range of 10 nm to 400 nm and energies from 3 eV to 124 eV. The name "ultraviolet" originates from the spectrum's electromagnetic waves, which possess frequencies higher than those identified by humans as the color violet.

UV light is present in sunlight and is emitted by electric arcs and specialized lights like black lights. As ionizing radiation, it can induce chemical reactions and cause various substances to glow or fluoresce. While most people are familiar with UV's effects through the painful condition of sunburn, it's important to note that the UV spectrum has both beneficial and damaging effects on human health.

This suggests that UV light can be detrimental and degrade almost any material. For example, leaving a PVC pipe in the backyard over the summer would make it brittle when subjected to pressure. Another illustration is the eventual fading of your car’s paint over time.

UV light is highly damaging to nearly all polymers, a process known as polymer degradation. Many plastics incorporate UV absorbers to prevent UV degradation.

In the case of quartz surfaces and granite resining, they are composed of and impregnated with polymers such as polyesters and epoxies. Many of these polymers lack UV absorbers, making them susceptible to degradation from UV light, leading to potential cracking, fading, and, ultimately, complete breakdown. I have even observed UV degradation occurring indoors when a countertop is exposed to sunlight. While glass provides some protection and reduces UV rays, it does not eliminate them.

How to prevent these failures? 

When contemplating the installation of a stone or quartz outdoor cooktop or bar, it is advisable to seek guidance from our Surface Buff Expert, the manufacturer, or fabricator regarding the material's suitability for outdoor use. Additionally, it is recommended that resin be inquired about in the stone. If resin is detected, consider discussing the option of non-resined granite. It is important to acknowledge that while non-resined natural stones may naturally fade over time, the process generally takes years to manifest. As technology advances, improvements in resin technology may mitigate or slow down the effects of UV degradation.

A couple of tips to protect your countertops and preserve their beauty, remember to cover them with breathable fabric when not in use or consider using tinted plexiglass to shield them from UV rays. These simple solutions will help maintain their elegance.

If you are unsure whether your granite is resined, you can consult your fabricator or our experts at Surface Buff for assistance. The type of resin used significantly impacts how it ages and reacts to UV and air. Acrylic resin is better quality and resistant to yellowing, whereas polyester resin tends to deteriorate and turn yellow rapidly.

Poultices have been a long-standing professional practice, wherein a combination of chemicals is applied to a stain to aid in extracting it from within the surface. While singular treatment can often suffice, certain stains may necessitate varying poultice recipes or multiple applications.

Here are the steps for using a poultice:

1. Identify the stain.

2. Clean the stained area to remove excess from the surface with Surface Buff approved products.

3. Wet the stained area with distilled water to fill the pores of the stone and isolate the stain.

4. Prepare the poultice by mixing the powder and chemical of choice into a thick paste or soaking the paper in the chemical.

5. Apply the poultice to the stain, being careful to avoid spilling on unstained areas, and ensure an even application.

6. Cover the poultice with plastic and securely seal the edges. Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly for 24 to 48 hours to draw the stain from the stone.

7. After the recommended drying period, remove the plastic cover.

8. Rinse the area with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. If the stain persists, reapply the poultice for further treatment. Difficult stains may require multiple applications.

9. Should any chemical etching occur on the marble surface, use polishing powder and buff to restore the shine.

When in doubt, always feel free to reach out to our EXPERT CONSULTANT to get help.

  Embrace the Timeless Beauty of Limestone Floors

Don't miss out on our complimentary care guide for all your limestone and surface care needs. Limestone floors bring an enduring elegance to your kitchen, bath, or living area. While they may lose their luster over time, you can keep them looking their best with the right approach.

Addressing Dull Spots and Etching

The key is to use a pH-balanced cleanser specifically designed for marble and limestone floors. Avoid acidic cleansers, which can lead to etching. Spills from acidic liquids like vinegar or lemon juice may also cause etching. For DIY light etching removal, consider limestone polishing compounds or etch removers. For heavier marks, it's best to seek assistance from a professional stone care expert.

Battling Stains

Dark spots caused by stains can usually be eliminated with a poultice, which safely absorbs stains without affecting the stone. Whether you purchase a ready-to-use poultice or make one yourself, effective stain removal is within reach.

The Pitfall of DIY Finishes

Over-the-counter finishes and lacquers may promise a temporary "wet look" and protection for your floors. However, they can ultimately lead to damage and dullness, flaking away over time and causing a maintenance nightmare. If you have such a finish, it's advisable to let the experts at Surface Buff manage the proper removal and restoration of your floor to its desired sheen.

Sealing Your Limestone Floors

Regular sealing is essential to prevent staining but keep in mind that sealers will degrade over time. For optimal results, have our expert-certified Surface Buff Technicians clean and reseal your limestone floors every two years, give or take, depending on the use and wear and tear.

Restoring Worn Floors to Their Former Glory

Before considering replacement, remember that worn or damaged limestone floors can be professionally refinished to look new again with the remarkable resilience of natural stone.

Preserving Their Pristine Appearance

With diligent care and maintenance, your limestone floors can perpetually exude the allure they had on their first day, serving you with timeless beauty throughout their lifetime.

Discover the timeless versatility of soapstone, a practical stone that has served various purposes for thousands of years. Its resistance to stains and etching from acids and alkalis makes it an ideal choice for kitchen counters and sinks. However, it's essential to be mindful of its susceptibility to scratches compared to other natural stones. This knowledge will prove invaluable in maintaining and preserving the beauty of your soapstone surfaces.

Rest assured, most day-to-day scratches on soapstone surfaces can be easily remedied by following these simple steps:

Step 1—Sanding Scratches

For light scratches, a dab of soapstone enhancer or FDA-approved food-grade mineral oil can make them disappear. The mineral oil, which has no odor or taste and does not become rancid like other oils, is an effective option. To permanently remove deeper scratches, use moderate pressure with an 80-grit sanding sponge on the scratched area. Depending on the depth of the scratch, more sanding may be required. If needed, a stone restoration contractor can expertly perform this service.

Step 2—Oiling or Enhancing

After sanding out the scratch, apply a light coat of mineral oil, walnut oil, or soapstone enhancer to the sanded area. Repeat the oil or enhancer application 2-3 times over 2-3 days until the sanded area matches the coloration of the rest of the stone. Follow the directions on the container for applying the oils or soapstone enhancer. It usually requires two applications, with the second one about 24 hours after the first.

If you have more substantial scratches, cracks, or chips or would prefer professional assistance from a Surface Buff Expert, consider contacting us immediately. Soapstone is not only functional and durable but also beautiful. Even after years of heavy use, soapstone can be refinished to appear as if it were just installed.

PVE (polyvinyl ether) stains, particularly on porous flooring materials such as natural stone, present a considerable challenge for removal using conventional stone-safe cleaners. This scenario commonly occurs during the repair of refrigerators, freezers, and air conditioning systems, where PVE oil may inadvertently reach the underlying flooring. Addressing this issue necessitates careful consideration and effective remediation methods to mitigate the resultant staining.

Before using potent chemicals that may potentially harm the stone surface, we recommend considering a series of do-it-yourself (DIY) approaches. These strategies are effective and empower you to address the issue independently. They are well-suited for combating PVE and other oil-based stains, and they all entail the application of a poultice, a paste-like substance effective in drawing out the stain from the stone surface. An effective poultice solution can be created by combining diatomaceous earth or poultice powder with various chemicals. Regardless of the specific ingredients, it is crucial to ensure that the poultice maintains a consistency akin to that of peanut butter.

Apply the poultice solution directly to the affected area and extend it by an inch or two. Cover the treated area with plastic wrap, securing it using blue tape. Allow the poultice to remain undisturbed for 12-24 hours, following which the plastic wrap can be removed and the area left to thoroughly dry.

If feasible, surface Buff Experts recommend conducting a preliminary test in a small, inconspicuous area before proceeding.

• Mixing the powder with a tool cleaner is an option, but it should only be done if the cleaner is not acidic. Acidic substances can chemically react with the calcium in natural stone, damaging etch.
• Consider using a gentle, all-natural degreaser with D-limonene to combat PVE stains. Look for commercial janitorial products or paint strippers labeled as "natural or green" that contain this ingredient.

If the initial attempt does not produce the desired results, consider mixing the poultice powder with acetone or a butyl-based degreaser containing "butoxyethanol." Due to the high pH, exercise caution by wearing gloves and goggles. To prevent the potential transfer of dye to the stone, ensure that the poultice is not overly colored, adding water if necessary to lighten its shade.

If a stain shows signs of "moving" or lightning, it indicates a positive outcome. This procedure can be repeated as necessary until the stain is entirely eradicated.

For further information on mixing and applying a poultice, visit our Stain Removal Tips Guide. If you find the process challenging, our trained and certified Surface Buff Technicians are ready to assist with removing difficult stains. Contact us today for expert assistance. 

Should your white marble floor or any other hard surface floor lose its pristine appearance and take on a yellow hue, this is a common issue that demands attention. White marble and other stone floors exude an unmistakable sophistication and refinement, whether adorning a residence or a commercial space. Yet, swift and decisive action is imperative when this revered aesthetic is compromised by discoloration.

Understanding the causes of yellowing and discoloration is vital to effective maintenance. 

Iron, the most common culprit for surfaces turning yellow, and can be found in many natural stones. When exposed to water, acids, or bleach, the iron in the stone will oxidize and turn yellow. In extreme circumstances, the surface can turn a brown color, akin to what happens to a piece of iron left out in the rain. To determine if your marble or other stone surfaces contain iron, you can have your stone tested by a lab or ask our Surface Buff expert. This knowledge reassures you and equips you with the necessary information for marble and other stone surface maintenance.

Oxidation is accelerated when surfaces are saturated with water. If you’ve had a pipe burst or excessive water used on the surface, have your water tested for iron, especially if you’re cleaning with it. It’s also a good idea to test the surface for moisture if it has been soaked with water. And STAY AWAY FROM STRING MOPS!

If oxidation is indeed your issue, preparing and applying a poultice solution may sometimes remove the yellowing from the marble. Some new products are also aimed at removing iron oxidation. However, the best action is to consult your certified Surface Buff Technician. We can provide expert advice on poultice mixtures or other products that may work best for your situation, making you feel supported and guided in your marble maintenance journey.

Inadequate cleaning products, tools, and methods can damage marble surfaces. Dirty mops can leave behind lingering dirt, leaving a yellowish and dull look on the floor. This discoloration can be resolved by employing a professional-grade stone cleaner during the cleaning process.

Another common cause of marble discoloration is everyday wear and tear, which can also cause white marble to turn yellow. As the polished surface wears away, trapped dirt in the marble’s pores can give the stone a yellow appearance.

TOPICALS ON SURFACES WREAK HAVOC!

When dealing with natural stone floors, being cautious about the products and methods used for cleaning and maintenance is essential. Applying waxes on the surfaces can result in a yellow grimy buildup over time, which can be difficult and costly to remove. Additionally, although the crystallization process provides a quick shine, it can be harmful as it damages the surface and introduces pollutants into the environment. Moisture present during this type of polishing can lead to yellowing, requiring additional treatments. 

Moreover, topicals can compromise the surface's safety by reducing the coefficient of friction and creating a layer between the surface and foot traffic. Not only are topicals challenging to maintain and remove, but they also damage the minerals on the surface while trapping dirt and germs and suffocating the surface.

To ensure the longevity and beauty of marble floors, it's recommended to avoid using waxes, topicals, and crystallization processes. Instead, opt for mechanical polishing and sealing with an impregnation sealer by a professional specialized in stone and tile care. This responsible approach will help maintain the marble floors' safety and aesthetics.

Here are some valuable suggestions from the experts at Surface Buff on how to safeguard your surfaces during guest visits, festive gatherings and special occasions.

☑ It's important to promptly clean any spills to prevent staining, particularly from substances like soda, coffee, fruit juice, and red wine. In the event of a stain, you can create a poultice or seek assistance from a professional stone technician.

☑ To protect tables and countertops from hot plates and spills, it's recommended to use trivets, doilies, tablecloths, and runners.

☑ Make sure to have coasters available on all surfaces and kindly remind guests to use them, especially on bar tops.

☑ During the holidays, it's a good idea to place a plate or placemat under your candles to catch any dripping wax and avoid staining your stone surfaces.

☑ When cooking on stone countertops, it's advisable to use cutting boards to avoid causing chips and scratches.

☑ To protect stone floors from scuff marks, it's a good idea to place floor mats at the front door and kindly request guests to remove their shoes upon entering.

☑ To prevent scratching on hard floors, it's a good idea to use felt pads on the legs of your furniture.

Our Surface Care Guide contains valuable information to assist you in maintaining the optimal condition of your surfaces. Should you encounter any issues beyond your capacity to resolve, please do not hesitate to contact us for assistance. Upholding the pristine appearance of your surfaces safeguards your investment.